![]() For the opening night, a group from contemporary performance artists CND (Centre National de la Danse) light–stepped it around the installation, emphasising Hermès’ message of ‘natural vigour’. The Hermès blankets, crafted from cashmere plaid, were inspired by the house’s archives, resembling a patchwork of the silk scarves worn by jockeys the Cordélie Arçon rugs depicted fence poles and racetracks, achieved by placing hand stitching woven cord onto linen porcelain tableware presented freehand illustrations by the artist Jochen Gerner in felt-tip pens the ‘Contour d’Hermès’ sofa was upholstered in wool and cotton slub canvas with red leather piping and the ‘Conservatoire’ chair, first introduced by the brand in the 1930s, reappeared in new slimline proportions, as conceived through the lens of Jasper Morrison. Inside this gridwork came a collection that riffed on the house’s equestrian motifs, presenting simplicity in the most sublime of ways. Hermès opted to go minimal in Milan, taking over La Pelota with an iron rod and concrete framework which was engineered to deliberately spurn excess. It’s a rhythmic visual production line of sorts.’ Versace ‘The circular tiers create infinite cycles of the different processes, each repeated when the next bag is made. ‘The full sculpture represents each step of making a Valextra bag, tiered to show the stages, with the final piece coming together on the top layer,’ say the designers, Isabel Gibson and Helen Chesner. In doing so, the brand returns its tools to the atelier in homage to its very first boutique on Piazza San Babila whereby its showroom and shop existed in the same space, presenting its process and product side by side. Staged in the brand’s John Pawson-designed Via Manzoni flagship, ‘The Rhythm of Valextra’ comprises a circular construction featuring the brushes used to hand paint the distinctive black lacquered ‘Costa’ edging that frames every bag, the scissors that cut its leather and the patented twist-lock clasp of its best-selling ‘Iside’ handbag. FilaĪs an ode to its engineering foundations, Valextra worked with London-based design studio Isabel + Helen to create a kinetic installation showcasing its time-honed tools and techniques. Developed at the brand’s own R&D hub in collaboration with the British design duo and textile specialists Sara + Sarah, Stone Island’s material experimentation is paving the way for a new perspective on how we engage with the materials that we wear and which surround us. As always, the collection of garments was made in an extremely limited edition of 100 pieces, which are more likely to be admired than worn – but that is also the point. Coined ‘Liquid Crystal Heat Reactive’, the material innovation has been tested between 15 and 21 degrees celsius which delivers a spectrum of shades that take a black base at room temperature, to yellow to green to (with a little more heat) blue. Series 7 of Stone Island’s Prototype Research Series unveiled a thermochromic technology that saw nylon-canvas coated with ‘helical-shaped cholesteric liquid crystals ink’ that reacts to an increase in temperature by becoming multiple variations of iridescent surface decoration. ‘It’s my homage to a company that embodies the same qualities.’ Jimmy Choo ‘The flexibility of the elements conveys a sense of elegance and beauty,’ says Bleiswijk. Presented with a buzzing cocktail in the brand’s Piazza della Scala flagship, the Dutch designer Joost van Bleiswijk recreated the Roman arches of Fendi’s Eternal City HQ for the window display. Joining them, the ‘PH’ floor light and ‘PH’ table lamp were Fendi-fied with a golden bronze finish and yellow diffuser. The legendary Dane’s ‘Artichoke ’pendant lamp was reimagined in metal featuring the Fendi logo and in yellow glass, evoking the shade so synonymous with the Roman fashion house. Alongside additions to its Toan Nguyen-designed ‘Totu’ collection, the new ‘Peekasit’ sofa and ‘Blow Up’ modular seating designed by Gabriele Chiave, the ‘Taiko’ sofa designed by Piero Lissoni, the ‘Icaro Table’ by Dimorestudio, the ‘Ottavia’ chairs by Cristina Celestino, and two new carpets, came the Louis Poulsen collaboration that got everyone talking. ![]() (Image credit: Courtesy of Fendi Casa and Louis Poulsen)įendi Casa pulled out the stops for Salone this year as it unveiled nearly a dozen new designs riffing off its distinctive DNA that fuses an intangible cosiness into its elegant compositions.
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